Melt and Pour Soap Making. Saving a soap design
- 20 ounces of opaque melt and pour soap base
- 1-2 ounces of clear melt and pour soap base
- Mica powder
- Fragrance or Essential Oil
- Isopropyl Alcohol
One of the great things you can do with Melt and Pour soap is if you make a mistake, you can always redo the soap or salvage the soap so that there is no waste.
I recently made a soap that I really didn’t like. I liked the colors and the concept was good but it just didn’t work out in real life instead of wasting the soap, I decided to revamp the soap.
Saving the Soap
So today I took one of my favorite molds, mainly because it is the best for testing new recipes because it’s small.
It will take approximately 20 ounces of soap. So I decided to split it into three as I would be doing 3 layers of soap. I also wanted to add a little bit of contrast, so I decided to do a pseudo mica line using Stardust Micas gold.
The fragrance of the old soap was Love Spell. It is really a wonderful smelling fragrance oil for soap. It’s one of my daughter’s new favorites. These soap scrapes were recently made and already had the fragrance in them. For that reason, I did not add any more.
I went ahead and took this soap that I previously made an measured it out in seven oz using my kitchen scale and my funnel cups. I would be doing this three times as this mold will take about 20 oz of soap. The soap that I am saving was Shea butter melt and pour base.
I am also using a glycerin base for my contrasting color. I am only using about 1 to 2 ounces of the glycerin base as I only want very thin lines between the layers.
I heated up the Shea butter soap scraps in the microwave for about 20 seconds make sure you cut them into small chunks they melt much faster.
I then poured my first layer into the mold and waited it to cool down. I needed a thick skin on the Melt and Pour that was poured in the mold so that I could pour the gold colored glycerin on top of it without it falling through in mixing with the pink layer. I tend to be impatient waiting and I almost had disaster number 2. It is ok to wait for the pink layer to completely set before pouring the gold layer.
Before I pour the gold layer on to the pink layer I added small hatch marks on the soap itself to help the gold layer adhere to the first layer better. I also spritzed with a small amount of alcohol. The concentration of the alcohol is best at higher than 90% but the 70% will also work.
Once the gold layer had set i went ahead and repeated the process with another pink layer of 7 ounces of my melt and pour scraps. I continued this process until the mold was full and let it set.
I decided that I wanted some kind of decorative top on the soap. I took the remaining scraps and shred them. I then added the scraps to the top of the soap and added a little more melted melt and pour soap to make the top adhere.
I prefer to use a waffle blade on this design only because it adds more depth and makes the design just a little bit more interesting.
Because this is Melt and Pour Soap, and I live in a very hot place it is possible for the soap to start to sweat if it stays out for too long.
For this reason, I will make sure that the soap is cool to touch And I will go ahead and shrink wrap it so that it does not start to sweat. I also tend to use low sweat soap bases to help alleviate this issue also.
I love the final result, and it is what makes me a wonderful fan of melt and pour soap.
Mistakes will always happen but it is a very forgiving art which I appreciate very much.